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W hat you see on your bottle of rum may not be what you get (2). Rum with fruits or spices galore. - Rhum, clarté et fiabilité des étiquettes (2). Rhum aux fruits ou épices à gogo.

12/28/2016

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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 20
Le Journal du Rhum d'Extrême Orient - No 20  


Coconut - Coco.
Coconut - Coco.
CHAMAREL coconut liqueur - liqueur coco.
CHAMAREL coconut liqueur - liqueur coco.
Let us continue to take a look at existing rum labels and the current products classification.
​ 

First let us examine some rums with fruits. A classic example of rum and fruits would be a coconut rum of some kind. It is basically made from a generic white rum or in the worse case scenario a neutral spirit, natural coconut extracts or artificial coconut flavour, sugar or some other sweetener and water.

You can expect the non alcoholic parts to be mixed together and possibly filtered before being added to the rum. The blend is then bottled and ready to be shipped out.


Here are some examples:

1. MALIBU:  It is marketed as a Caribbean Rum with natural coconut flavor.

This is an interesting example. The rum comes from Puerto Rico so Caribbean can apply. 

The alcohol content is 21% so if the white rum used is at 40% there there is at least 50% of non rum which can be mostly attributed to water and liquid sweetener. I doubt there is any actual coconut used in making Malibu. Putting the word “natural” in front of flavour does not magically make it less artificial. 

The consensus on this is that although there is some rum inside the actual product is closer to a liqueur.

2: MADRAS PUNCH COCO: This cocktail is quite similar to Malibu but is has key differences. It is made in Guadeloupe (French West Indies) using Rhum Agricole (fresh cane juice rum). The alcohol content is 18%. In this case we can expect actual coconut extracts and about 50% sweetened water to be used in the blend. The actual product is sold as a Punch to adhere witch strict regulations (a rum made in France containing fruits or spices can only be called punch or liqueur). This punch received a Gold Medal earlier this year at the Paris Concours Général Agricole.
​

3:  CHAMAREL COCONUT LIQUEUR: Another similar product made in Mauritius this time and sold under another name. This liqueur is also made with rhum agricole and actual coconut. Yet, the alcohol content is 35% so there is very little water in this blend. ​
Continuons notre examen des étiquettes de rhum ainsi que la classification actuelle des produits.

Commençons avec les rhums aux fruits. Par example un rhum au coco. Il est vraisemblablement élaboré à partir d'un rhum blanc générique ou dans le pire des cas un alcool rectifié des extraits naturels ou des arômes de coco, du sucre ou autre édulcorant et enfin de l'eau. 

On peut s’attendre à ce que les parties non alcooliques soient mélangées et éventuellement filtrées avant d'être ajoutées au rhum. Le mélange est ensuite mis en bouteille et prêt à être commercialisé.

Voici quelques exemples:

1. Le MALIBU: Il est commercialisé comme un rhum des Caraïbes aux arômes naturels de coco.

C'est un exemple intéressant. Le rhum provient de Porto Rico donc nous sommes bien dans les Caraïbes.

La teneur en alcool est de 21% donc si le rhum blanc utilisé est à 40% il ya au moins 50% de non rhum à savoir de l'eau et des arômes ou édulcorants liquides. Je doute que le Malibu soit fabriqué avec du veritable coco. Précéder le mot arômes du mot «naturel» ne va pas magiquement rendre ces derniers moins artificiels.

Bien que le Malibu contienne du rhum le consensus est que ce produit s’apparente plus à une liqueur qu’à un rhum.

2: Le PUNCH COCO de MADRAS: Ce cocktail est assez similaire au Malibu, mais il a des différences clés. Il est fabriqué en Guadeloupe en utilisant du Rhum Agricole. La teneur en alcool est de 18%. Dans ce cas, on peut s'attendre à une élaboration à partir de véritables extraits de coco et d’environ 50% d'eau sucrée. Le produit final est vendu comme un punch conformément à la réglementation en vigueur. Ce punch a obtenu une médaille d’or cette année au Concours Général Agricole de Paris.

3: La liqueur COCO de CHAMAREL: Un autre produit similaire fabriqué cette fois à l’ile Maurice et vendu sous une autre dénomination. Cette liqueur est également élaborée à partir de rhum agricole et de veritable coco. Le produit final titre à 35 degrés donc il y a très peu d’eau dans ce mélange. ​
Bourbon Vanilla - Vanille Bourbon
The famous Bourbon Vanilla from Reunion island - La fameuse Vanille Bourbon de La Réunion.
Now let us spices things up with vanilla.
​
As it happens Chamarel does sell a vanilla liqueur and a vanilla rum. The former is made in a way similar to the previous liqueur with vanilla replacing coconut. Although there is a vanilla pod visible in the bottle, to obtain the desired vanilla taste one would need to slice the pod and extract the black seeds and the end product would need to be filtered before bottling. The Chamarel vanilla rum has an alcohol content of 40% so 2% less than the Chamarel Premium (white agricole) they produce. One may expect very little if any sugar in this spiced rum. 
Avec la la vanille les choses se compliquent.
​

​Il se trouve que Chamarel commercialise à la fois une liqueur vanille et un rhum vanille. La liqueur est élaborée comme la ligueur précédente en remplaçant le coco par la vanille. Bien qu'il y ait une gousse de vanille visible dans la bouteille, pour obtenir le goût désiré de vanille il faut couper la gousse et en extraire le contenu pour le mélanger au rhum. Le mélange devant impérativement être filtré avant embouteillage. Le rhum vanille Chamarel a une teneur en alcool de 40% donc 2% de moins que la Chamarel Premium (rhum agricole blanc) produit par la distillerie. On peut s'attendre à très peu ou pas de sucre dans ce rhum épicé.
Edmond Albius.
Edmond Albius.
CHAMAREL vanilla rum - Rhum Vanille
CHAMAREL vanilla rum - Rhum Vanille
Last but not least, my parents and I have used the family Demijohn (or Dame-jeanne in French) to make a blend of rum with litchis. Once prepared, the mixture had to be left alone for weeks if not months. We called it “Rhum Arrangé”, French for infused rum. This type of rum should be put in his own category because the commercial products I mentioned above, blended before being bottled are sold right away for economical if not practical reasons. 

The exception can be found in products like the Rhum Métiss – Vanille Bourbon awarded a gold medal in Paris in 2015. It is a commercial infused rum made with Rhum Charette and the famous Bourbon vanilla. Once bottled the mixture is stored for some days before being sold. 
 
As you can see, the above products called cocktail (Madras), liqueur, punch or rum have an alcohol content ranging from 18% to 40%. They may contain any amount of sugar. They are made using molasses or pure cane juice rum. They are always blended but rarely infused for a long time.
​

To be continued.
Pour terminer, mes parents et moi avons fabriqué du rhum arrangé aux letchis dans la Dame-jeanne familiale. Une fois préparé, le rhum était laissé de côté des semaines voire des mois avant sa consommation. A mon avis, ce type de rhum devrait figurer dans une catégorie à part sachant que les produits commerciaux mentionnés ci-dessus, mélangés avant d'être mis en bouteille sont vendus immédiatement pour des raisons économiques voire pratiques.

On trouvera l’exception qui confirme la règle dans un produit tel que le Rhum Métiss - Vanille Bourbon, médaille d'or au Concours Agricole de Paris en 2015. C'est un rhum arrangé commercial élaboré avec du rhum Charrette et la célèbre vanille Bourbon. Une fois embouteillé, le mélange est entreposé pendant quelques jours avant d'être commercialisé.

Pour conclure, les produits ci-dessus appelés cocktail (Madras), liqueur, punch ou rhum ont une teneur en alcool allant de 18% à 40%. Ils peuvent contenir une quantité quelconque de de sucre. Ils sont fabriqués à base de rhum de mélasse ou de rhum agricole. Ils sont tous mélangés mais rarement mis à infuser pendant une période prolongée.

À suivre.
Litchis of Reunion Island - Letchis de La Reunion.
Litchis of Reunion Island - Letchis de La Reunion.
Rhum Metiss Vanille Bourbon.
Rhum Metiss Vanille Bourbon.
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What you see on your bottle of rum may not be what you get. - Rhum, clarté et fiabilité des étiquettes.

11/1/2016

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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 19
Le Journal du Rhum d'Extrême Orient - No  19


Denizen Rum - Rhum Denizen
Denizen Rum - Rhum Denizen
Sailor Jerry Spiced Navy Rum
Sailor Jerry Spiced Navy Rum
What goes into the making of a commercial rum? Let us look at what happened before bottling. Perhaps caramel, molasses or sugar was added to the rum. This will not be indicated on the bottle except for spiced rum (e.g. coconut rum, vanilla rum…). Water most likely have been added to the rum to reduce the strength to say 40% (80 ABV). You will probably not know if the rum was charcoal filtered (to make it crystal clear).
Quelles sont les étapes de l’élaboration d’un rhum commercial? Penchons-nous sur ce qui est arrivé avant l'embouteillage. Du caramel, de la mélasse ou du sucre a pu être ajouté au rhum. Ce ne sera pas indiqué sur la bouteille, sauf dans le cas de punch ou rhum aromatisé (par exemple rhum coco, rhum vanille...). Si votre rhum est à 40%, il a été vraisemblablement réduit par addition d’eau. Si votre rhum a été filtré au charbon (pour la rendre transparent) vous ne le saurez probablement pas.
Ron Pampero Aniversario
Ron Pampero Aniversario
Rhum Savanna 7 ans (7 years).
Rhum Savanna 7 ans (7 years).

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In response to "Cognac and Rum… What’s the difference?"

11/30/2015

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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 18


A note about the authors. The web site www.cognac-expert.com is managed by siblings named Max and Sophie. In the blog of the same name they write articles about their favorite spirit.

A few months ago, I came across one of their post dated November 16th 2014 named “Cognac and Rum… What’s the difference?” hosted here: http://blog.cognac-expert.com/cognac-rum-difference/”

During the 2nd edition of the Hong Kong Rum Festival I made a presentation named “From Cognac to Rhum: A Tale of Two Spirits”. I wanted the visitors to better understand the similarities and differences between three French spirits: cognac (and to some extent armagnac) and rhum (rhum = French rum).

I may be a rum expert but I am far from being a cognac expert, however while preparing the above presentation I had to take a closer look at cognac and armagnac I can therefore say that I am more than able to offer my view on the subject.

So let us take a closer look at the article.

Picture
“What are Cognac and Rum made of?”

I agree that cognac is made from grapes. In fact, 98% is made from Ugni grapes.
95% of rums are made from molasses, a byproduct of sugar production. The other rums are made from pure cane juice (e.g. rhum agricole) or pure cane juice syrup (none of these last two are byproducts by the way).

According to the author(s), it is more difficult to grow grapes than sugarcane. This is very subjective. For example, I could argue that you need a machete to harvest sugarcane and a crusher to extract the juice. Grapes on the other hand are fairly easy to harvest and press. 

The score: Whichever way you want to look at it, I do not believe that this is relevant.
Picture
“What do Cognac and Rum look like?”

First, let me say that I strongly disagree with the approach of this article. I can go with the scoring system providing your method is sound and objective. However comparing cognac (A.O.C. by definition) with the myriad of English, Spanish and French rums made all over the world is like trying to compare apples and oranges.
I would have preferred if the author(s) had chosen to take a look at cognac and say Rhum Agricole A.O.C. Martinique. That way we would know both products have to follow European and French regulations in addition to strict production methods required to meet their respective A.O.C. standards.

​To add insult to injury, in this section the author(s) is/are comparing cognac that as you may know cannot be sold un-aged with all the rums aged and un-aged. A white rum can be un-aged or it can be filtered after being aged. It can be also be darkened with additive like caramel. 


I would say, if you are trying to compare the appearance of a cognac and a rum (or better rhum) it would be best to pick two spirits with enough similarities (e.g. by nomenclature: V.S.O.P., X.O.). 
In any case, if you are in France, you should have no problem finding an aged rhum with “a beautiful amber hue.” 

In this section the author(s) added a picture of four rums:
- Captain Morgan Silver Spiced Rum
- Appleton Estate VX (Jamaica)
- Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum
- Flor De Cana 7 years Old Grand Reserve (Nicaragua)

The two spiced rums should not even be here (obviously).
We are left with an English rum and a Spanish ron. 

The VX rum is a blend of 15 rums aged between 5 and 10 years. I also know for a fact that there is no added sugar in the Appleton VX. It would be interesting to compare the VX with a cognac blended in a similar fashion. The alternative would be to consider an oak aged Damoiseau (Guadeloupe), Neisson (Martinique) or perhaps Riviere du Mât (Reunion). 
​

The Score: Not relevant unless you compare products with enough similarities (e.g. cognac X.O. vs rhum A.O.C. X.O.)
Picture
“Where are Cognac and Rum made?”

“it’s generally known that rum is produced in the islands of the Caribbean”. This is a common misconception. True a lot of rums are produced in the West Indies which is also where rum originated. But rums are made all over the planet, not only in the Americas but in Africa, Asia-Pacific and in a myriad of tropical islands all over the globe. 

“However, most of the sugar cane and byproducts are actually grown elsewhere, and imported prior to distillation.” Some producers are indeed importing molasses, most? No it is not the case. But feel free to provide any evidence you may have.

By the way we have visited a number of sugarcane estates and distillers in the West Indies and the Indian Ocean. The estates were growing their own crop or getting their sugarcanes or molasses) from nearby estates.
​

The Score: Despite illustrating this paragraph with a gorgeous photo of a white sand beach the author(s) gave yet another point to Cognac.
Picture
“How long do Cognac and Rum take to produce?”

Again since cognac is never sold un-aged, let us ignore the un-aged rums.
“cognac can take anything from a couple of years to centuries to come of age.“ 
Cognacs are often aged in 300-400 litre oak casks from the Limousin region. The quality of a cognac is likely to peak between 30 and 40 years and decline after 50 years. A commercial cognac is almost always a blend of various vintages therefore bottles of vintage cognacs are extremely rare. In my opinion there is no point aging a cognac beyond 50 years even with an angel share as low as 1%-2% per year. On the other hand, I would not recommend drinking a cognac aged less than 10 years. Both cognac and rhum are distilled at about 70°and cognac is always reduced (diluted with water) down to 40°. In fact, you can make a rhum the same way you make a cognac when it comes to (double pot) distillation, oak barrel aging, blending and reduction. However you can also find vintage rhums, full proof (e.g. cask strength) rhums and even single cask rhums.

“But rum doesn’t need to be aged anywhere near as long as cognac to become the end product.” Yes and no, if your spirit is aged under tropical conditions you will pay a hefty angel share of 10% per year or more but your spirit will age 3-4 times faster than in France. 

“One of the reasons for this is that spirits produced from sugarcane don’t contain products that take time to become palatable.”

I disagree. But feel free to provide evidences. To me the answer to the question how long will it take to age my spirit is: It depends where and under what condition it will be aged (e.g. natural condition in a tropical cellar vs natural condition in a South of France cellar).
It is true however that a rhum aged only 3-4 years can be “as good as” a cognac aged 12-15 years (for a fraction of the price).

We may all agree that natural ageing of spirits may be what we expect, however readers should be aware that they are people who have created ways to age spirits much faster. One of them is Bryan Davis (Lost Spirits Distillery). For those interested you can find in this article named “This Guy Says He Can Make 20-Year-Old Rum in 6 Days” posted here: http://www.wired.com/2015/04/lost-spirits/


The score: I would rather give a point to rhum here but let us continue.
Picture
“What do they cost? $$$”

The author(s) concluded this section saying: “So if we’re going for affordability here, we probably have to say that rum wins this section by a whisker.”
This is true but my question is why? In my opinion whisky is overpriced compared to rhum but not as must as armagnac or cognac.

You will certainly pay more for Ugni Blanc grapes in the South West of France than sugarcane (in Guadeloupe, Martinique and Reunion) and one could say that cognac does cost more to produce. But what about distillation and ageing cost? They should be quite similar. So, shall we pay more for cognac than say rhum agricole? To answer this question we must look at the angel's share once more. Age rhum 20 years in Martinique and a cognac 20 years in France. You will end up with over twice as much cognac than rhum. In other words, twice the number of bottles of cognac. Now I will let you compare the price of the bottles.
Picture
“What do they taste like?”

Perhaps it would be interesting to compare flavour profiles of some prominent cognacs and see if we can find rhums with similar desirable traits. I bet we can. 
​

As conclusion I will simply share what I told the audience at the end of my presentation:
- Rhum inherited some traits from Cognac and sometimes uses similar technics
- Rhum making varies from island to island and from one distiller to another
- Rhum is a very versatile product often priced below face value
- Rhum is a very sophisticated spirit better in many ways than Armagnac/Cognac 
Picture
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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 17 - HKRF215 Day 1 bits and pieces

5/31/2015

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Yesterday I took the time to walk around the Rum Festival and speak with old and new friends. With Master Blender Richard Seale we talked about the effect of ice on rums. For him even spiced rums should be taken neat at room temperature to avoid losing flavours. Something certainly worth considering before putting your rum bottle in a bucket of ice.

With Alexandre Gabriel (the Master Blender of Plantation rums) we briefly talked about a unique rum he made using the Victoria pineapple which is like Vanilla Bourbon come from Reunion island. I am glad to see more distillers making rums using the best ingredients available in the world.

A video about this rum can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYdei9uq6jo

In my next post I will share some of the things I discussed with my friends Robert A. Burr and last but not least Global Rhum Ambassador Ian Burrell.
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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 17 - HKRF2015 Starting Today

5/30/2015

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Not so long ago you could only find three rums in our city (two English and a Spanish one).
In the last few years the situation has improved significantly. Any of the three market leaders are offering over a hundred rums.



Like others around the world, the Hong Kong Rum Festival is an opportunity for rums makers and importers to present their products and for buyers to sample a number of rums several of them available for the first time in Hong Kong.


It is also an opportunity for the visitors to meet important figures of the industry like Global Rum Ambassador Ian Burrell, Alexandre Gabriel (maker of Plantation rums), Claudine Neisson-Vernant (Rhum Neisson), Liam F. Costello (from Fiji Rum Co), Mickael Derunes (New Grove) and yours truly.


This year expect to see a plethora of rums and if you are lucky you may bump into Richartd Seale (Master Blender of Doorly rum) or Robert A. Burr (the man behind the Rob's Rum Guide and the Miami Rum Renaissance Festival).


ENJOY THE 3RD HONG KONG RUM FESTIVAL!


Philippe Buchle
R(h)um Ambassador - Greater China and Asia 



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The Far East Rum Diary - Issue # 17 - Back in the days

3/9/2015

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The First edition of the diary was sent out in June 2013 right after the first Hong Kong Rum Festival.
It included an invitation to what must have been the first Iberico Ham and Rhum pairing in Hong Kong.
The July and August editions were also sent to our readers by email. 

By September, the newsletter had a lot more to offer and became available online (hosted at Rhum De France web site) and back issues have been moved to the cellar.

It is now time to move to another format: The Blog.
From now on, we will post articles one by one both on the web site and in facebook and once we have a complete issue the articles will be grouped together before being archived. 

Stay tune for more.

Philippe Buchle, Greater China and East Asia R(h)um Ambassador
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    Picture

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    The Far East Rum Diary (TFERD) is a collection of "rum worthy" news and events taking place in Asia and beyond written by Philippe K.A. Buchle,  R(h)um Ambassador based in Hong Kong.


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